The ruddy one
Definition of vermeil
Although vermeil has been around for centuries, it is still largely unknown. Remarkably precious, vermeil is a precious metal in its own right. In layman's terms, it's gold plated on solid silver.
In reality, vermeil is an appellation that meets strict criteria. In fact, to hold this appellation in France today, the layer of gold must be equal to or greater than 5 microns thick, of a minimum purity of 700 thousandths (18 carats), and be plated directly onto silver of a minimum purity of 800 thousandths (silver 800), without the presence of any other metal. The silver hallmark or V hallmark must be affixed to the work to attest its preciousness.
Vermeil has the advantage of being made exclusively of noble metals. As such, it is hypoallergenic, precious, recyclable and, above all, durable. Thanks to its composition, vermeil will stand the test of time. It is resistant to time, water - entirely waterproof - and wear, and does not oxidize. With all the advantages of gold, but far more affordable, vermeil is an exceptional choice.
History of vermeil
Gold plating dates back to antiquity. Numerous civilizations have developed their own techniques for gold-plating jewelry, goldsmiths' and silversmiths' wares.
The first genuine vermeil objects date back to pre-Columbian civilizations, notably the Incas. For them, gold, omnipresent in their culture, represented the Sun God and the Emperor. It was worked with silver, abundant in the Andes, to represent the Moon.
It was in 18th-century France that vermeil became a precious metal in its own right. Primarily used for the opulent jewels of royalty, and later for tableware, vermeil was a way of expressing wealth and making works last over time.
Today, vermeil is used more for large goldsmith's pieces. The jewels found in vermeil tend to be vintage pieces, as the jewelry market has turned over the years to less precious, more affordable pieces.
What's the difference with other gildings?
The gold with fine gold
Although it's an attractive name, fine gold-plated jewelry is the least precious, the least durable, but has the advantage of being much more affordable. It's easy to adorn yourself with a variety of jewels to suit your mood.
To qualify, a piece of jewelry must be coated with a layer of gold only 1 micron thick. This layer of gold is usually applied to a base metal, such as copper or brass. A thin layer of copper usually smoothes the surface. Because of its thinness, gold-plated jewelry is very likely to darken and fade over time.
Gold plating
Gold-plated jewelry requires a 3-micron-thick layer of gold. The jewel may or may not be made of base metal. Generally, as with fine gold plating, a thin layer of copper is applied to smooth the surface of the jewel for a better finish.
Because the gold layer is thicker, gold plating is more durable than fine gold plating. It can last for several years if care is taken, and remains affordable. As a compromise, gold plating is the most common quality on the jewelry market today.
Gold-filled
Widely known in America, but much less so in France, a gold-filled piece of jewelry is one in which the gold layer has been mechanically bonded to a metal base - usually brass - rather than affixed to it.
In the USA, to obtain this designation, the layer of 14k or 12k gold must be 5% of the total weight of the jewel. In Brazil, it's 3% 18k gold bonded to brass. Gold filled is similar to gold plating, but with 50 to 100 times more gold - although less pure - it is much more durable and resistant.
The ruddy one
Vermeil is the most precious plating there is. It is remarkably precious, resistant and highly durable.
Although vermeil is most often used for large-scale work, we've decided to make it the standard for even our most delicate jewels.
Because we appreciate first and foremost the beauty of the combination of these two metals, their purity and properties, as well as their symbolism.
Secondly, because we're committed to sustainability, and we want to create pieces that inspire you every day, that carry meaning and tell your stories, and that can be passed on to future generations.
Photo credits: 1 - Nekala Jewellery; 2 - Le Grand Vermeil de l'Empereur, Pot à Oille et Plateau, 1789-1804, Henry Auguste. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais / Art Resource, NY ; 3 - Keng_1980 / Freepik